Historical Archaeology in the Ancient Mediterranean

Day Two of Survey

Today began bright and early at 5:00am as usual. The first task included a drive to a lighthouse that marks the southern end of the survey area. When we arrived I was struck by the sheer size of the survey area. It stretches from just south of Toprakkale in the north to the lighthouse south of Arsuz. Obviously it is not possible to survey such a large area in one season so occasionally the team sits down with satellite photos, aerial photos, and topographic maps to identify collection units. The last two days have focused on the southern end of the survey area.

We began survey south of the major Roman site near Konacik with the three large excavated sarcophagi and the columns lying on the coast. As an interesting side note apparently during the Crusader Period this area was known as the Port of Columns. It appears that the columns have been laying there for a while and not a result of modern activity. The survey methodology adopted today was extensive non-site survey. The survey began well outside of the Roman site boundaries and ran to the south. During the course of survey two sites were identified. The first contained mostly Late Roman and Byzantine material while the second possessed both Hellenistic and material.

Identifying a site includes but is not necessarily restricted to the presence of architecture, cultural landscape manipulation, features, and increased artifact densities. The two sites were identified today by the sudden appearance of concentrated material culture, primarily pottery. After a site is identified, the basket number is closed down and the field director gives the site a number. Then the surveyors conduct an artifact collection. The artifacts will then be assigned to the newly established site number. During the collection process another participant will determine the site boundaries and map it by taking several GPS points. After these two tasks the appropriate forms are filled out.

The two sites discovered today are of modest size, both well under 2.5 hectares. Below I have posted pictures of the survey and the local “wildlife.”

Base Camp

We finally arrived at our lovely little Catholic monastery outside of Iskenderun. The monastery is high in the mountains in the small village of Guzelyayla. Everyone has their own room and some, including myself, have their own bathroom. The rooms are a little small but provide all the basic necessities including a bed, closet, desk, chair, and bathroom. The site offers a great “view” of the mountains, the bay, and Iskenderun. We are fairly isolated and at this point internet access is non existent. I have therefore decided to compose these posts during down time and when I have the opportunity to access the internet I will schedule each post to publish on consecutive dates. If anyone tries to email me please be aware that my internet access is sporadic and can lead to long delays between communication and posts but I will answer emails when I have the chance.

First Day of Survey

The Mopsos Survey began today near the small village of Konacik, south of Iskenderun. Last year the team identified a large site and today’s goals were to survey the area and attempt to define the site boundaries and draw and photograph exposed sensitive material. The Mopsos project utilizes both site and non-site survey methodology and, depending on the situation, adopts an intensive or extensive approach. The survey approach today was an extensive site survey.

One small team worked on illustrating three large sarcophagi, of Roman date, that looters and archaeologists excavated over the years. An archaeological site report has yet to be made available and very little is known as to the function, name, or use of the site. Unfortunately the archaeologists in charge of the limited excavations did little in the way of site conservation or simple backfilling for that matter. The site is exposed to the elements and numerous looter trenches fill the small fenced in area. Looters have damaged all three sarcophagi but the large sarcophagus, see the picture below with me as a scale, bears many chisel marks that merely preserve the location of ornate sculpture, see the picture below. Looters have also dug straight through mosaic floors in search of more tombs. Therefore to preserve what remains of the excavated area proper documentation is of utmost concern.

The two other teams, including myself, conducted the survey. Starting from the excavated area the two teams, spaced roughly 10 meters apart, surveyed to the south. Once artifact densities significantly dropped, the survey unit was terminated. To the south of the excavated area the remains of at least four monumental columns lay on the Mediterranean waterfront, see picture below. The columns are likely from a mound that possessed monumental architecture. After we reached a consensus as to the location of the southern boundary, we returned to the excavated area and surveyed north. Survey continued to the north to identify a northern boundary. Artifact densities did drop significantly in the north but the presence of a large wadi and stories from the locals of major flooding in the area, we cannot concretely define the northern boundary. Based on the artifact densities identified during the survey it appears that the site dates primarily to the Roman and Late Roman periods and covers roughly 10 hectares.

One last component to the survey was an oral history element, see the picture below. There is a concerted effort on this project to speak with the locals to hear their explanations of the archaeological material surrounding them, get tips for other sites in the area, and just get a general feel of how they perceive us working in their area. The stories of the major flooding in the area really helped us make sense of the Roman site.

On a side note, the Mopsos Survey has its own site blog, Realtime Archaeology, and I highly recommend checking it out. Several participants, including myself, provide posts on a range of topics dealing with archaeological methodology, practice, and unique experiences. I have posted a link for the blog to the left or you can just click here.

 

Fieldwork Delayed

Our first day of fieldwork was scheduled for today but there was a delay. Our Turkish archaeological representative went with us to Antakya to get our residency permits. The rules governing archaeological work in Turkey differ from Cyprus. In Cyprus once you have your permit and contacted the department of antiquities you are ready to do archaeology. In Turkey there is a long process to apply for research visas. After one receives their permit they have to get a residency permit. Once one finishes all the paperwork they are assigned a representative who goes out in the field with the team each day. That said I was more than happy to go to Antakya and see ancient Antioch.

After sitting in the police station for a few hours doing the necessary paperwork for the residency permits, we did a little sightseeing around the city. Initially I was a little disappointed by the modern city due to a lack of Roman remains. After lunch, however, my mood changed. We toured the archaeological museum and a few of us hiked a mountain to see the Justinian fortification walls around the acropolis. The museum possessed many mosaics that rivaled, but did not surpass, the remains from Paphos in Cyprus. The fortification walls and the view down to Antakya were amazing. Below I have posted a few pictures of the walls, the view of Antakya, a massive carved face of Charon near St. Peter’s church, and one of the many mosaics.

Our last two stops before returning to base camp were Tayinat and Tel Atcana. Dr. Tim Harrison of Toronto University gave us a guided tour of Tayinat. Harrison’s enthusiasm for his site made for an interesting talk. We were unable to meet with the Tel Atcana team but did tour the site. With the research visas, residency permits, and Turkish representative sorted out, we will start fieldwork tomorrow.

 

First Official Day of the Project

Sunday June 29th marked the first official day of the project. The project I am working with is called the Mopsos Survey, which encompasses the Issus and Iskenderun regions of Eastern Cilicia. The project is under the direction of Dr. Ann Killebrew and Dr. Gunnar Lehmann. It is a pedestrian survey of selected areas within the survey area and is also a field school. I decided to enroll in the GIS course and an independent study. The first day of the project consisted of introductions and two seminars on GIS. The survey, beginning next week, runs from 5:00 am-1:00pm. After lunch courses, depending on the day, will run into the late afternoon. I look most forward to seeing the differences between a very intensive pedestrian survey of a 250 hectare site in Cyprus with an extensive pedestrian survey of a much larger site in Turkey. Although I have to be away from family and friends for months on end in the summer, I am very fortunate with the archaeological opportunities afforded to me.

Two Armenian/Crusader Castles

On our journey from Adana to base camp outside of Iskenderun we stopped at two Armenian castles. The first castle Yilan Kalesi, also known as “Snake Castle,” dates to the fourteenth century and was very impressive. The long hike to the top started with a nice wide paved walkway but soon gave way to a narrow dirt trail and then a few steep rocky walls. The long approach was worth it. The “view” from the castle down to the Cilician Plain was breath taking. The well-preserved castle had its perils as one of the undergraduate participants took a little tumble. The second castle, Toprakkale, was abandoned in 1337. The Armenians and Crusaders fought over the castle for several years. The black basalt masonry provides an interesting atmosphere and the open cisterns and collapsed underground chambers make every visitor conscience of each and every step. The only annoying element to Toprakkale were two castle residents who wanted to show, and potentially sell, everyone their ancient coins.  The first two picutres are Yilan Kalesi and the second two are Toprakkale.

 

The Adana Museum

Before heading to the monastery a group of us visited the Adana Museum. Interesting featured artifacts included a natural crystal figurine of the Hittite god Tarhunta, a Roman sarcophagus shaped like a torpedo, the Achilles sarcophagus, and a large bronze statue depicting a Roman senator. After the museum we walked past Sabanci Nerkez Camii, the third largest mosque in the world, and a wonderfully preserved first-century A.D. Roman bridge preserved as a pedestrian walkway. The Roman finds from Adana and Tarsus are amazing but I cannot wait to get back into the field.

   

A Day in Tarsus

Last night around 1:00 am I arrived in Adana along with Jeff, Andrea, and Thad.  After having breakfast this morning our 12-member team took a field trip to nearby Tarsus.  Tarsus played a major role during the Roman period as it was the Roman capital of Cilicia, the city where Cleopatra first seduced Mark Antony, and the birthplace of St. Paul among other things.  The highlights of my trip were the excavated Roman street, Cleopatra’s Gate, St. Paul's Church, and a wonderful Coke (see pictures below).

The comparisons with Cyprus will pop-up from time to time so I might as well start now.  In Turkey, like Cyprus, only organic remains are to be flushed down the toilet, this means no toilet paper.  The Mediterranean climate remains strong in Turkey and Cyprus with high heat and heavy humidity.  In Turkey it is not a good idea to drink tap water but bottled water is fairly inexpensive (1 lira for a 2 liter bottle).  Tomorrow afternoon we will depart for our monetary and began archaeological work shortly thereafter.  Again the internet situation is up in the air so I will post as much as I can.

Off to Turkey

Its about 6:00 am in State College and my bags are all packed.  In two hours I will hop on a bus bound for New York with two of my fellow CAMS graduate students Thad and Jeff.  At 7:30 pm the three of us along with Andrea, another CAMS graduate student who is already in New York, will board a plane bound for London.   We have a relatively short layover in London before heading to Istanbul.  From Istanbul we fly to Adana where we will stay for a few days before driving to base camp near Iskenderun.  I am looking forward to the trip and can wait to see the sites in Turkey!

T-Minus Two Days

After the long mind numbing 26-hour drive from Denver to State College I just started thinking about Turkey.  I began my summer with a four-week field season in Larnaca, Cyprus.  After Cyprus I spent about five days in Denver for my sister's wedding and visiting with my parents, sister, brother, and the Minnesota family who drove in for the wedding.  After the wedding the family and I drove back to State College.  Now I have less than two days to prepare myself for another month of fieldwork.

The fieldwork in Turkey is a large pedestrian survey under the direction of Ann Killebrew from Penn State.  Since this is my first year with the project I do not have specific research goals as yet.  I hope in the coming years to work with the Roman material and gain yet more experience conducting archaeological survey in the eastern Mediterranean.  One of my comp fields for my PhD is Mediterranean archaeology and both the Cyprus and Turkey projects will prepare me well for the test.  I am not sure what to expect, I plan to blog everyday (like the Cyprus fieldwork) provided that there are internet facilities accessible.  Besides packing and saying goodbyes, my remaining responsibility is to put together a 15 minute presentation and 10 minute oral presentation for Alexander the Great's Anatolian campaigns specifically focusing in the Battle of Issus.  Much to my enjoyment the battle site is in our survey area.  Each graduate student is required to give such a presentation.  Tomorrow I will provide one last post before the Turkey adventure.